File:Rip current-cuspate shoreline interactions in Southern Monterey Bay (IA ripcurrentcuspat109451985).pdf

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Original file(1,275 × 1,650 pixels, file size: 2.08 MB, MIME type: application/pdf, 60 pages)

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Summary

Rip current/cuspate shoreline interactions in Southern Monterey Bay   (Wikidata search (Cirrus search) Wikidata query (SPARQL)  Create new Wikidata item based on this file)
Author
Woods, John E.
Title
Rip current/cuspate shoreline interactions in Southern Monterey Bay
Publisher
Monterey, California. Naval Postgraduate School
Description

The interaction between rip channels and cuspate shoreline was examined by analyzing data obtained by the Naval Postgraduate School Imaging System (NAPSIS) during the winter of 2004-2005 in Southern Monterey Bay. Video imaging data was used to determine rip channel locations. The rip fields had constantly changing shapes and sizes, and the beach underwent a transformation from a Transverse-barred-beach (TBB) to a Longshore-bar-trough (LBT) state. Mean rip spacing was determined to be 173 and 258m respectively for the two different beach states (TBB and LBT). Directional wave spectra measured at the offshore NOAA buoy in deep water were refracted to the 10m depth contour at the actual study site. Estimated alongshore sediment transport, Qs, was calculated using the refracted wave data. The hypothesis that rip channel migration is due to alongshore sediment transport is qualitatively confirmed. Little or no migration occurred when Qs values were close to zero. Migration rates were calculated over a three week period during a time of high rip mobility with an average migration rate of 3.2m per day. The rip channel orientations were constantly changing. Three distinct rip channel shapes were common: straight, slanted, or C shaped. The rip channels tended to slant in the opposite direction of the estimated sediment transport, since the rip channels migrated more rapidly at their base (nearest to shore) and more slowly offshore. The hypothesis that the mega-cusps on the beach are erosional features of rip currents was tested by crosscorrelating the 2m beach contour obtained using GPS beach surveys with an alongshore video pixel intensity line. During a time of steady rip channel migration, it was found on average that the cusps lagged the rip channels by 50m with a maximum correlation near one. Assuming the system is in steady state, a response time of 14.7 days was obtained by dividing the lag distance by the average migration rate.


Subjects: Oceanography; Rip currents; Ocean currents; Meteorology
Language English
Publication date September 2005
Current location
IA Collections: navalpostgraduateschoollibrary; fedlink
Accession number
ripcurrentcuspat109451985
Source
Internet Archive identifier: ripcurrentcuspat109451985
https://archive.org/download/ripcurrentcuspat109451985/ripcurrentcuspat109451985.pdf
Permission
(Reusing this file)
Approved for public release, distribution unlimited

Licensing

Public domain
This work is in the public domain in the United States because it is a work prepared by an officer or employee of the United States Government as part of that person’s official duties under the terms of Title 17, Chapter 1, Section 105 of the US Code. Note: This only applies to original works of the Federal Government and not to the work of any individual U.S. state, territory, commonwealth, county, municipality, or any other subdivision. This template also does not apply to postage stamp designs published by the United States Postal Service since 1978. (See § 313.6(C)(1) of Compendium of U.S. Copyright Office Practices). It also does not apply to certain US coins; see The US Mint Terms of Use.

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Date/TimeThumbnailDimensionsUserComment
current10:34, 24 July 2020Thumbnail for version as of 10:34, 24 July 20201,275 × 1,650, 60 pages (2.08 MB)FEDLINK - United States Federal Collection ripcurrentcuspat109451985 (User talk:Fæ/IA books#Fork8) (batch 1993-2020 #26802)

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